Five weeks in Iceland – “That's going to be expensive” people said to me. It depends.

I woke up and looked behind the curtain, clear blue sky. Yesterday had been cold and grey all day, I find blue sky exciting. I looked at my clock – 08:07, time to get up. The waterfall I'd seen up the road yesterday would look even better in the sun so by 08:20 I was ready to leave (ready to leave = dressed. Everything else is optional) I got to the waterfall and although there were people there it wasn't too busy so I was able to have a good walk around and take some photos.

I needed breakfast so I left the tourist car park and stopped a couple of miles up the road to cook myself an omelette - my standard breakfast so far this trip.

Since it was sunny, I wanted to go out walking by the sea or on a fjord so I had a look on a map and picked somewhere. I'd not heard of the village I chose or read about it in any leaflets, but it was off the tourist trail and not too far and it looked like the minor road turned into a track up the side of the fjord. Perfect.

I found a grassy/gravelly pull in and got out to have a look – it was stunning – somewhere to spend the night too. It was a fairly narrow fjord with snow capped mountains around it, and then I heard something. A whale's blow. They were a long way away but I could just make out that they were whales, and after my visit to the Húsavìk whale museum the other day, I could tell that they were humpback whales. With binoculars I sat and watched them, a group of 3 and one on its own. Until this trip I'd never seen a whale, I was mesmerized and watched them until my omelette had worn off.