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Sunday, 01 January 2012

Where to Eat in Venice - Page 2

Written by Scott Haas
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Wine, on its own, has its merits in Venice.  There is no shortage of wine bars in the city, many are wonderful, and for two or three Euro, you can enjoy a great glass.  Next to Casa del Parmigiano is literally a hole in the wall.  You order, you stand, you drink, and later you pay.  The white from San Erasmo is a chipper number.  My favorite wine bar, near the house we stay, just outside of Campo San Barnaba, is Osteria al Pugni.  It is situated at the base of a small footbridge where, ages ago, fights were staged to entertain the crowds.  Two sets of golden footprints mark the stances still.

Cross that bridge and you wind up in Campo Santa Margherita.  This is one of my favorite campos in the city.  Filled with students from the local university, as well as faculty, the campo has an impressive array of wine bars and little restaurants.

Your best bet here, and elsewhere in the wine bars, is to indulge in pre-meal snacks of cicchetti.  Displayed in glass, on long shelves, these tidbits are typically fried vegetables, small pieces of sausage, or fish like baccala.  Simply delicious.

KP142894Two upscale restaurants I came to enjoy in Venice are Pane e Vino, which offers remarkably good Friulian cuisine in a tavern like setting, and alle testiere.  The former has truly the best San Daniele proscuitto I have ever eaten.  The latter is now among my five favorite restaurants on earth: A menu that changes often, making use of superb local fish and shellfish, and consistency of presentation.  Just stunning.

Although I was hesitant to leave Venice, our friends invited us to stay with them for a night in Udine.  Claudia’s kitchen turned out deeply flavorful risotto, pasta with fall vegetables, and grilled polenta with melted gorgonzola.  I salivate thinking of it. 

We also went to the Foundation de Claricini Dornpacher nearby to savor superb local wines: Friulano, Prosecco, Refsco, and a Rosso named Guido Tavagnacco.

The bad news?  Claudia does not have a restaurant where you can enjoy her food.

The good news? Beginning this February, her daughter Camilla is going to run the house in Venice as a B&B.  You can enter the fairy tale world of Venice, and now that you know where to eat and drink, you won’t need a kitchen. 


Each of the restaurants, bars, and shops noted are readily found with patience and a map.  You must reserve alle testiere at least two weeks prior.  To reach Camilla: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

© Scott Haas


(Page 2 of 2)
Last modified on Sunday, 16 December 2012

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