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Thursday, 16 June 2011

New Orleans: It’s Not Just About the Music - Page 3

Written by Scott Haas
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Only one dinner remained and we saved one of the best for last: Upperline (413 Upperline Street, 504-891-9822), where JoAnn Clevenger holds court. You dine, in a storybook neighborhood house deep in the Garden District, on fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade, turtle soup, cane river shrimp, and, yes, more sweetbreads. JoAnn is a genius at entertaining guests and is as much at home talking about the world outside the restaurant as she is at describing what goes on in the kitchen.

On our last morning, hesitant about leaving the city, fantasizing about moving to New Orleans, I headed over to Mother’s (401 Poydras Street, 504-523-9656) to buy an airplane picnic. We’re talking some of the city’s best Po’ Boys. Try the Ferdi Special (baked ham, roast beef, debris, and gravy) or the fried oyster sandwich. (Debris are the burnt ends of the roast beef. Just writing that sentence has me salivating.) The counter staff at Mother’s will be happy to discuss local rapper Lil Wayne’s phenomenal success as you wait for your order. When Obama appeared on the TV, one of the woman said gleefully, “That be my husband!”

When the plane reached cruising altitude and I took my first bite of the po’ boy from Mother’s, I tasted the soul of the city, longing for more, history in my hands.

©Scott Haas


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Last modified on Sunday, 16 December 2012

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