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Wednesday, 30 April 2014

Waltzing through the Grand Cafés of Vienna - Page 5

Written by John M. Edwards
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    And then on I wended to Café Hawelka, run by an impressive Frau off  

the beaten paths of the Herengasse, Graben, and Kohlmarkt, which look  

like they were built specifically for tourists. But this city is still  

filled with ”hidden neighborhoods,” such as the Jasomirgottstrasse (“So  

Help Me God Street”) and the Schonlaterngasse (“Land of the Beautiful  

Lanterns”). Jesus, I felt like a frankfurter with “liberty cabbage”  

(a.k.a., “sauerkraut” or “choucroute”) with all the info overload.

 

    Heading down the Singerstrasse to the Deutsch “Ordenskirche” (The  

Church of the Teutonic Order), I checked my tourist map for the Hofburg  

“Crib,” which purportedly held Charlemagne’s Sword.

 

    Last stop: Café Landtmann (4 Dr. Karl Lueger-Ring)—once a hangout for  

the Emporer Francis I and the Empress Maria Theresa, back when linoleum  

was a new invention.

 

    I felt fortunate enough to step backward in time, surrounded outside  

the awesome edifice by horse-drawn “Fiakers,” to the age of the Holy  

Roman Empire, which was neither holy nor Roman.

 

    What about the Café Mozart (2 Albertinaplatz)? Nah!

 

    Instead, with my Walkman tuned in to the famous Vienna Boys’ Choir, I  

stopped awhile at the “Nachtung Markt” to buy prezzies like elderberry  

balsamic vinegar, sweet palatschinken (sweet pancakes), and a fanciful  

piece of Marzipan resembling Homer Simpson. . . .

 

    “Doh!”

 

    Or, maybe I am biting the head off of a “kugelyn” Obama!

 

©John M. Edwards

 

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THE DIRTY DOZEN: THE TOP 12 GRAND CAFES OF VIENNA:

 

1. CAFÉ GRAND: (1880): (9 Kaertner Ring)): This typical Fin de Siecle  

“grand café,” often confused with the Café Central, on the first floor  

of the Grand Hotel Wien, is on the Kartner Ring near the Vienna State  

Opera. Try, the excellent spongy “Guglhupf” (Ring Cake) and coffee to  

die for, while wallowing in their excellent musical taste: Austrian  

Flamenco guitarist Otmar Liebert included.

(Page 5 of 6)
Last modified on Friday, 02 May 2014

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