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Tuesday, 01 January 2013

Southern Patagonia: The Bottom of the Earth - Page 3

Written by Eva Stelzer
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A second glacier adventure takes us to Perito Moreno. This time, a 20-passenger boat with wood-slatted benches brings us to what looks like a mountain of whipped cream.


Crampons are attached to our shoes for the mini-trek on the jagged spikes of frozen snow.  A quick lesson on how to plant our feet down flat and lift them straight up – the needed technique to move forward along the unfamiliar surface – and we are on our way. Giovanni, our Italian glaciologist escort, leads us up and around the peaks, landing us at a makeshift bar. A shot of whisky chilled with fresh glacial ice, a sweet tasting dulce de leche, and we are content. There’s something unique about a landscape that screams outpost and hearty locals who are sophisticated, classy and elegant.

We head to a log shelter for a picnic lunch. The afternoon’s entertainment is staring up at Perito Moreno’s 60-meter towering wall above the icy blue-green waters. It feels like being at a drive-in movie. This week’s film: ice calving. 




A series of dynamite-like blasts pierces the silence. Nothing seems to move. Then we see it. Nature’s force belches out a block of white-blue ice from the solid dam that blocked the flow of water on the lake’s northern branch. For weeks there has been talk of an impending break, and we are there to witness the start. Water gushes through the opening like a spewing fire hydrant.


I think it is lucky we didn’t succumb to Giovanni’s dire warning about falling into a crevasse and ending up in China! We look forward to returning to the luxury and comfort of Cristina’s place for a glass of chilled wine.


©Eva Stelzer

For more information on hiking trips in Patagonia or walking holidays in Italy, contact Eva at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or telephone 1.888.284-2669. Check out her website at

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Last modified on Friday, 18 January 2013

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