Laos is a developing country, everywhere I go I see poverty. The country gained independence from the French in 1953. After a long lasting guerrilla struggle the communistic Pathet Lao party took power in 1975 and still rules the country, but much has changed since then. The government has opened ideologically and supports commerce and entrepreneurship.
Income from tourism is encouraged. 50% of the tourists that visit Laos come from neighbouring countries. They are seeking nostalgia, the South East Asia of 50 years ago. The western tourists are mainly backpackers looking for adventure, culture and nature though upmarket tourism is on the rise. The construction of new roads is opening up Laos and the number of organized tours increases each year.
Many times monks strike up conversations with me. They want to practice their English language skills. Noi is a 16-year old monk who stays at the Wat Thammothayalan temple. His head is shaven bald; under his arm he carries a stack of books.
“My parents are poor.” He says. “They live in a village in the mountains. There is only a primary school there and my father decided to have me initiated as a monk so I can attend the high school in the temple. ”
For many village children from poor families going to the temple school is the only opportunity to get an education. The high school is often far away and difficult to reach. Most young monks leave the temple after they have finished school. They look for a job or start a business. The lucky ones can attend university.
Wat Thammothayalan is a tall white building. Four pillars beautifully ornamented with golden decorations support the dark red tiled roof. Intricate woodcarvings in the large doors portray angels that protect the building.
A steep flight of stairs behind the temple leads to Phu Si, a 320 feet high hill that towers above Luang Prabang. On top of the hill stands the impressive golden That Chomsi stupa. Halfway up I reach several large Buddha sculptures. The sparkling gold of an entrancing sleeping Buddha is contrasting sharply with the black of the rock wall and the dark green of the jungle.
There is a small sign pointing towards a Buddha footprint. It is not easy to find. I end up in a dark cave filled with Buddha images and relics. Outside the cave I find the footpath that leads to the footprint. In the dim light of the cavern I see a ten foot long shape that resembles a foot. Gold leaf is pasted on the imprint. According to legend this is one place where Buddha touched the ground when he reached enlightenment.
On the top of the hill I have a fantastic view on Luang Prabang and the Mekong. The 79 feet high stupa glitters above me against a deep blue sky.