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Friday, 16 February 2007

Dining Without Limits in Las Vegas - Page 3

Written by Scott Haas
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Las Vegas is the fattest city in America, according to Men’s Fitness magazine, which has published a survey of the most and least healthy spots in the country over the past ten years. That’s up from #2 in 2006. Viva Las Vegas!

©MGM MIRAGE
©MGM MIRAGE
But the crown jewel of the Las Vegas dining establishment has to be Joel Robuchon at the Mansion, which is right inside the casino of MGM Grand. In order to get to the restaurant, you must walk by hundreds of slot machines and gaming tables. On the inside, you might as well be in Paris—the illusion is brilliant. The bar area is a mellow combination of red and black and the cozy dining room is extremely sedate. A fake garden with a wall of ivy abuts the room.

©MGM MIRAGE
©MGM MIRAGE

Chef Robuchon’s food on its own is transporting—deep flavors culled from small tastings of foie gras, black truffles, seared fish, Japanese beef, and risotto work miracles on the palate as the kitchen crew has coaxed the essence from what’s served. What’s fascinating is the way in which the setting around the restaurant disappears with each bite. It’s the opposite of terroir—the idea that a romantic evening in Paris adds to the meal. Here, surrounded by gambling, the chef has to create a new reality.

©MGM MIRAGE
©MGM MIRAGE

“We want to remove the customer from reality while he’s here,” said Chef Robuchon. “To forget where he is—while you’re in the restaurant you can forget you are in the middle of casino.”

©MGM MIRAGE
©MGM MIRAGE

© Scott Haas

(Page 3 of 3)
Last modified on Sunday, 16 December 2012

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