Rajasthan is a mesh of overlapping threats. The scorching heat which from the sands of the Thar Desert and the threat of aggressive cheap jacks around every bend both smack of Dante's Inferno. The food is usually more chili powder than sustenance and the combination of these things is enough to check most travelers before they even put their shoes on. Typical vacationers have little interest in places where their intestines periodically feel as though they've been sucked into a Dirt Devil.
Still, those who are brave enough to face North India's dust and hustle will be pleased to find that there are comforts to be had. One small hotel in Jodhpur, in particular, is an oasis of worldly pleasure in an otherwise trying landscape. Though its sign reads Shivam Paying Guest House, it might well state: "Take hope, all ye who enter here."
Jodhpur is easy to reach from Delhi. An overnight train service called the Mandor Express can transport you from Old Delhi Railway Station to Jodhpur while you sleep, although many travelers choose to include Jodhpur as part of a larger tour of Rajasthan.
Shivam (as locally abbreviated) is accurately advertised as “a hundred and fifty years old traditional house with a beautiful character in it.” Situated in the old city, it stands conveniently between two of Jodhpur's greatest attractions, Mehrangarh Fort and the Sardar Bazaar under the Clock Tower. Hundreds of shops comprise these markets, which extend all the way down Nai Sarak into the new city, selling local handicrafts, used books, spices, textiles, steel and much more.
Shivam is near Post Office Makrana Mohalla, down a well-marked side street, which cuts down the noise and traffic. If you do not stop to dawdle (although you should) it’s about a fifteen minute walk from the train station. The Mehrangarh, one of India's largest forts, towers over the city--just as it has since the fifteenth-century. Its walls reach nearly 70 feet up from the 400 foot hill it rests on.